RWS SERIES

Root Watering System - There’s no better way to encourage healthy trees.

Subsurface aeration and irrigation prevents tree and shrub transplant shock.
Subsurface deep root watering and aeration ensures tree health and promotes accelerated growth.
Highest efficiency solution for tree irrigation - up to 94% distribution uniformity with minimal wind, evaporation, or edge control losses.

Installation and Maintenance:

  • Save time and assembly labour versus homemade systems because the system comes with pre-installed Rain Bird 1401 Series pressure compensating bubbler.
  • Compatible with drip tubing systems.
  • Easy to specify: one model instead of a host of parts.

Healthy trees and shrubs:

  • Promotes trees and shrub health by allowing water, oxygen and nutrients to reach feeder roots in areas with compacted soil or thick lawns.
  • Releases trapped gases that may increase plant stress.
  • Mesh tube are perforated with thousands of holes, allowing water to permeate the ground at the root bulb while providing excellent aeration.
  • Ideal for urban settings: Subterranean watering encourages roots to remain below surface , tree roots are less prone to damage.

Vandal resistance:

  • The grate locking feature protects against vandalism.
  • Aesthetically pleasing because it’s installed below grade.

Reliability:

  • 3-year warranty.
  • All units are self-contained and factory assembled.
  • RWS - BGX: system with factory pre-installed Rain Bird 1401 Series bubbler, locking grate , spiral barb elbow and 45cm of ½” swing pipe.
  • RWS - M - BG : system with factory pre –installed Rain Bird 1401 Series bubbler, locking grate , spiral barb elbow for attachment of ½” swing pipe.
  • RWS - S - BCG : system with factory preinstalled Rain Bird 1401 Series bubbler, snap-on-cap , spiral barb elbow for attachment of ½” swing pipe.

RWS & Mini –RWS models 
The Rain Bird Root watering device will consist of a grate retainer constructed from high-grade polymer with UV-resistant thermoplastic inhibitors. The grate retainer will also secure the pre-assembled system consisting of bubbler and barb fitting.
No adjustment required.
Pre-installed Rain Bird 1401 Series bubbler.
Pressure compensating from 1,5 to 5,5 bar.
Flow rate : 57l/h


Shrub–RWS model 
The Rain Bird Root watering device will consist of a snap-on cap and base cap constructed from highgrade polymer with UV-resistant thermoplastic inhibitor. The cap will house the basket weave container. The snap-on cap will also secure the pre-installed system consisting of a bubbler and barb fitting.
No adjustment required.
Pre-installed Rain Bird 1401 Series bubbler.
Pressure compensating from 1,5 to 5,5 bar .
Flow rate : 57l/h

RWS model:
- Height: 91,4 cm
- Diameter: 10,2 cm


Mini-RWS model:
- Height: 45,7 cm
- Diameter: 10,2 cm


Shrub RWS model:
- Height: 25,4 cm
- Diameter: 5,1 cm

How does RWS minimize the crushing possibility of a tree’s roots to the RWS tube?

Tree and shrub roots will find water. They will move toward the RWS tube. However, because it is not filled with soil, the roots will not enter the tube. One option to consider is to fill the tube with pea gravel. The gravel will help dissipate the water and direct it out the sides in a more controlled fashion rather than just filling from the bottom-up. The gravel will also create a firm foundation to the RWS tube, minimizing the possible crushing impact of tree and shrub roots.

How does water move horizontally in soil?

In normal conditions with rain or surface watering, studies show that roots absorb around 70% of their water from the top half part of the root depth and 30% from the lower half. Wetness patterns differ based on the soil type. In sandy soil, water moves more vertical and less horizontal. In clay or loam soil, water also moves vertical but less rapidly, allowing time for the water to also more horizontally. Subsurface watering gets water deeper into the root growth area. As soaking occurs with RWS, water will make its way horizontally into the surrounding soil, more so in clay and loam soils than sandy soils.

How long should I water?

A 0.25 gallon per minute (0.95 l/m) bubbler will put out 7.5 gallons (28,4 liters) in 30 minutes. The volume of the 4” x 36” RWS tube (10,2 cm x 91,4 cm) is about 2 gallons (π r² h = 452 cubic inches or 1.98 gallons) (7,6 liters), less when the irrigation hardware is factored and much less if pea gravel is used. The soil type also plays a big role. The key is not to put more water into the tube than the tube and soil can absorb during that watering period. As a general rule, shorter watering volumes will limit overflows.

Should the RWS tubes be placed on a separate watering zone?

Yes. RWS units should be installed in their own watering zone. One might consider overlaying RWS with sprays, especially if flowers and ground cover are planted with trees and shrubs. Many installations see RWS as the only option during periods of drought – sprays might not be allowed but drip and subsurface irrigation are. 

How many RWS do I need? 

For trees, 2-4, depending on the size. For shrubs, 1-2. For tree installations with two RWS watering zones, 4-6 RWS units could be used.

Which bubbler is best?

It depends on the soil type and length of watering. See the previous question.

Where should the RWS units be placed with respect to the trees? 

They should be placed away from the tree trunk and away from the tree bulb, ideally directly underneath the edge of where the mature tree’s canopy will be. The goal is to help the roots get out of the original hole and into the adjacent soil. The RWS needs to place water into this targeted area.

For longer term tree watering, RWS units can be placed at two different tree perimeters, each on a different watering zone. One perimeter can be closer to the root ball to help during the first couple of years. The second perimeter can be placed further way from the trunk to provide watering in subsequent years. During the first few years, only the internal RWS zone would be used; in the subsequent years, only the external RWS zone will be used. It is more expensive but it will provide a long-term tree water system in order to promote broader and deeper roots.

Can a RWS be used in tandem with a surface spray? 

Sprays are perfect for top-down soaking. This is great when a tree is newly transplanted. They help keep the root ball area moist. The RWS is placed outside of that root ball and helps drive roots away from the root ball into the adjacent soil. They are ideally used together during the first couple of years.

What tree watering tips do you have?

Deeper and less frequent watering can encourage healthier root growth for both turf grass and trees. Regular irrigation cycle ~ 3x weekly, applied to the root ball with 2-3 gallons (7.6 - 11.4 liters) of water for each caliper inch of tree is ideal. Many arborist recommend a moat-like structure around the trunk and above the root ball for the first year and then a donut in which water is moved further away from the trunk and no above the original root ball.

Too many people over-water trees; so avoid over watering. Many implement no artificial watering after year 3. Do no pruning for the first year after planting as pruning can inhibit root establishment and growth. Maintain the mulch area around the root zone and prevent grass or weeds close to the tree trunk.

Heavy equipment and pedestrian passing on top soil and material storage can squeeze out up to 60% of the water by elongating roots. When this happens, root rarely recovers. So establish traffic free zone around the critical root zone. Restrict site access to the soil surface as soon as possible with fences. Try to be the first one on the site and setup anti-compaction protection – defend the ecological “foot print” of the tree rooting area. Select transplanting and irrigation installation working conditions (dry, dormant season, surface mulch, etc.) that minimizes compaction. Restrict where possible vibrational compaction.

Can vertical mulching promote tree health?

Yes. Vertical mulching helps alleviate soil compaction. RWS is part of a virtual mulching planting environment. Tree holes should be bigger than the tree bulb. The adjacent soil needs to allow the roots to move into the new soil. 3” to 4” (7,6 - 10,2 cm) layer of high quality organic soil over the critical root zone improves soil texture, moisture retention, increase soil fertility and weed control.

What tree watering tips do you have?

Deeper and less frequent watering can encourage healthier root growth for both turf grass and trees. Regular irrigation cycle ~ 3x weekly, applied to the root ball with 2-3 gallons (7.6 - 11.4 liters) of water for each caliper inch of tree is ideal. Many arborist recommend a moat-like structure around the trunk and above the root ball for the first year and then a donut in which water is moved further away from the trunk and no above the original root ball.

Too many people over-water trees; so avoid over watering. Many implement no artificial watering after year 3. Do no pruning for the first year after planting as pruning can inhibit root establishment and growth. Maintain the mulch area around the root zone and prevent grass or weeds close to the tree trunk.

Heavy equipment and pedestrian passing on top soil and material storage can squeeze out up to 60% of the water by elongating roots. When this happens, root rarely recovers. So establish traffic free zone around the critical root zone. Restrict site access to the soil surface as soon as possible with fences. Try to be the first one on the site and setup anti-compaction protection – defend the ecological “foot print” of the tree rooting area. Select transplanting and irrigation installation working conditions (dry, dormant season, surface mulch, etc.) that minimizes compaction. Restrict where possible vibrational compaction.

How many RWS do I need? 

For trees, 2-4, depending on the size. For shrubs, 1-2. For tree installations with two RWS watering zones, 4-6 RWS units could be used.

Can vertical mulching promote tree health?

Yes. Vertical mulching helps alleviate soil compaction. RWS is part of a virtual mulching planting environment. Tree holes should be bigger than the tree bulb. The adjacent soil needs to allow the roots to move into the new soil. 3” to 4” (7,6 - 10,2 cm) layer of high quality organic soil over the critical root zone improves soil texture, moisture retention, increase soil fertility and weed control.

Should the RWS tubes be placed on a separate watering zone?

Yes. RWS units should be installed in their own watering zone. One might consider overlaying RWS with sprays, especially if flowers and ground cover are planted with trees and shrubs. Many installations see RWS as the only option during periods of drought – sprays might not be allowed but drip and subsurface irrigation are. 

How long should I water?

A 0.25 gallon per minute (0.95 l/m) bubbler will put out 7.5 gallons (28,4 liters) in 30 minutes. The volume of the 4” x 36” RWS tube (10,2 cm x 91,4 cm) is about 2 gallons (π r² h = 452 cubic inches or 1.98 gallons) (7,6 liters), less when the irrigation hardware is factored and much less if pea gravel is used. The soil type also plays a big role. The key is not to put more water into the tube than the tube and soil can absorb during that watering period. As a general rule, shorter watering volumes will limit overflows.

How does water move horizontally in soil?

In normal conditions with rain or surface watering, studies show that roots absorb around 70% of their water from the top half part of the root depth and 30% from the lower half. Wetness patterns differ based on the soil type. In sandy soil, water moves more vertical and less horizontal. In clay or loam soil, water also moves vertical but less rapidly, allowing time for the water to also more horizontally. Subsurface watering gets water deeper into the root growth area. As soaking occurs with RWS, water will make its way horizontally into the surrounding soil, more so in clay and loam soils than sandy soils.

How does RWS minimize the crushing possibility of a tree’s roots to the RWS tube?

Tree and shrub roots will find water. They will move toward the RWS tube. However, because it is not filled with soil, the roots will not enter the tube. One option to consider is to fill the tube with pea gravel. The gravel will help dissipate the water and direct it out the sides in a more controlled fashion rather than just filling from the bottom-up. The gravel will also create a firm foundation to the RWS tube, minimizing the possible crushing impact of tree and shrub roots.

Which bubbler is best?

It depends on the soil type and length of watering. See the previous question.

Where should the RWS units be placed with respect to the trees? 

They should be placed away from the tree trunk and away from the tree bulb, ideally directly underneath the edge of where the mature tree’s canopy will be. The goal is to help the roots get out of the original hole and into the adjacent soil. The RWS needs to place water into this targeted area.

For longer term tree watering, RWS units can be placed at two different tree perimeters, each on a different watering zone. One perimeter can be closer to the root ball to help during the first couple of years. The second perimeter can be placed further way from the trunk to provide watering in subsequent years. During the first few years, only the internal RWS zone would be used; in the subsequent years, only the external RWS zone will be used. It is more expensive but it will provide a long-term tree water system in order to promote broader and deeper roots.

Can a RWS be used in tandem with a surface spray? 

Sprays are perfect for top-down soaking. This is great when a tree is newly transplanted. They help keep the root ball area moist. The RWS is placed outside of that root ball and helps drive roots away from the root ball into the adjacent soil. They are ideally used together during the first couple of years.

What tree watering tips do you have?

Deeper and less frequent watering can encourage healthier root growth for both turf grass and trees. Regular irrigation cycle ~ 3x weekly, applied to the root ball with 2-3 gallons (7.6 - 11.4 liters) of water for each caliper inch of tree is ideal. Many arborist recommend a moat-like structure around the trunk and above the root ball for the first year and then a donut in which water is moved further away from the trunk and no above the original root ball.

Too many people over-water trees; so avoid over watering. Many implement no artificial watering after year 3. Do no pruning for the first year after planting as pruning can inhibit root establishment and growth. Maintain the mulch area around the root zone and prevent grass or weeds close to the tree trunk.

Heavy equipment and pedestrian passing on top soil and material storage can squeeze out up to 60% of the water by elongating roots. When this happens, root rarely recovers. So establish traffic free zone around the critical root zone. Restrict site access to the soil surface as soon as possible with fences. Try to be the first one on the site and setup anti-compaction protection – defend the ecological “foot print” of the tree rooting area. Select transplanting and irrigation installation working conditions (dry, dormant season, surface mulch, etc.) that minimizes compaction. Restrict where possible vibrational compaction.

How many RWS do I need? 

For trees, 2-4, depending on the size. For shrubs, 1-2. For tree installations with two RWS watering zones, 4-6 RWS units could be used.

Can vertical mulching promote tree health?

Yes. Vertical mulching helps alleviate soil compaction. RWS is part of a virtual mulching planting environment. Tree holes should be bigger than the tree bulb. The adjacent soil needs to allow the roots to move into the new soil. 3” to 4” (7,6 - 10,2 cm) layer of high quality organic soil over the critical root zone improves soil texture, moisture retention, increase soil fertility and weed control.

Should the RWS tubes be placed on a separate watering zone?

Yes. RWS units should be installed in their own watering zone. One might consider overlaying RWS with sprays, especially if flowers and ground cover are planted with trees and shrubs. Many installations see RWS as the only option during periods of drought – sprays might not be allowed but drip and subsurface irrigation are. 

How long should I water?

A 0.25 gallon per minute (0.95 l/m) bubbler will put out 7.5 gallons (28,4 liters) in 30 minutes. The volume of the 4” x 36” RWS tube (10,2 cm x 91,4 cm) is about 2 gallons (π r² h = 452 cubic inches or 1.98 gallons) (7,6 liters), less when the irrigation hardware is factored and much less if pea gravel is used. The soil type also plays a big role. The key is not to put more water into the tube than the tube and soil can absorb during that watering period. As a general rule, shorter watering volumes will limit overflows.

How does water move horizontally in soil?

In normal conditions with rain or surface watering, studies show that roots absorb around 70% of their water from the top half part of the root depth and 30% from the lower half. Wetness patterns differ based on the soil type. In sandy soil, water moves more vertical and less horizontal. In clay or loam soil, water also moves vertical but less rapidly, allowing time for the water to also more horizontally. Subsurface watering gets water deeper into the root growth area. As soaking occurs with RWS, water will make its way horizontally into the surrounding soil, more so in clay and loam soils than sandy soils.

How does RWS minimize the crushing possibility of a tree’s roots to the RWS tube?

Tree and shrub roots will find water. They will move toward the RWS tube. However, because it is not filled with soil, the roots will not enter the tube. One option to consider is to fill the tube with pea gravel. The gravel will help dissipate the water and direct it out the sides in a more controlled fashion rather than just filling from the bottom-up. The gravel will also create a firm foundation to the RWS tube, minimizing the possible crushing impact of tree and shrub roots.

What tree watering tips do you have?

Deeper and less frequent watering can encourage healthier root growth for both turf grass and trees. Regular irrigation cycle ~ 3x weekly, applied to the root ball with 2-3 gallons (7.6 - 11.4 liters) of water for each caliper inch of tree is ideal. Many arborist recommend a moat-like structure around the trunk and above the root ball for the first year and then a donut in which water is moved further away from the trunk and no above the original root ball.

Too many people over-water trees; so avoid over watering. Many implement no artificial watering after year 3. Do no pruning for the first year after planting as pruning can inhibit root establishment and growth. Maintain the mulch area around the root zone and prevent grass or weeds close to the tree trunk.

Heavy equipment and pedestrian passing on top soil and material storage can squeeze out up to 60% of the water by elongating roots. When this happens, root rarely recovers. So establish traffic free zone around the critical root zone. Restrict site access to the soil surface as soon as possible with fences. Try to be the first one on the site and setup anti-compaction protection – defend the ecological “foot print” of the tree rooting area. Select transplanting and irrigation installation working conditions (dry, dormant season, surface mulch, etc.) that minimizes compaction. Restrict where possible vibrational compaction.

How many RWS do I need? 

For trees, 2-4, depending on the size. For shrubs, 1-2. For tree installations with two RWS watering zones, 4-6 RWS units could be used.

Can vertical mulching promote tree health?

Yes. Vertical mulching helps alleviate soil compaction. RWS is part of a virtual mulching planting environment. Tree holes should be bigger than the tree bulb. The adjacent soil needs to allow the roots to move into the new soil. 3” to 4” (7,6 - 10,2 cm) layer of high quality organic soil over the critical root zone improves soil texture, moisture retention, increase soil fertility and weed control.

Which bubbler is best?

It depends on the soil type and length of watering. See the previous question.

Where should the RWS units be placed with respect to the trees? 

They should be placed away from the tree trunk and away from the tree bulb, ideally directly underneath the edge of where the mature tree’s canopy will be. The goal is to help the roots get out of the original hole and into the adjacent soil. The RWS needs to place water into this targeted area.

For longer term tree watering, RWS units can be placed at two different tree perimeters, each on a different watering zone. One perimeter can be closer to the root ball to help during the first couple of years. The second perimeter can be placed further way from the trunk to provide watering in subsequent years. During the first few years, only the internal RWS zone would be used; in the subsequent years, only the external RWS zone will be used. It is more expensive but it will provide a long-term tree water system in order to promote broader and deeper roots.

Can a RWS be used in tandem with a surface spray? 

Sprays are perfect for top-down soaking. This is great when a tree is newly transplanted. They help keep the root ball area moist. The RWS is placed outside of that root ball and helps drive roots away from the root ball into the adjacent soil. They are ideally used together during the first couple of years.

Which bubbler is best?

It depends on the soil type and length of watering. See the previous question.

Where should the RWS units be placed with respect to the trees? 

They should be placed away from the tree trunk and away from the tree bulb, ideally directly underneath the edge of where the mature tree’s canopy will be. The goal is to help the roots get out of the original hole and into the adjacent soil. The RWS needs to place water into this targeted area.

For longer term tree watering, RWS units can be placed at two different tree perimeters, each on a different watering zone. One perimeter can be closer to the root ball to help during the first couple of years. The second perimeter can be placed further way from the trunk to provide watering in subsequent years. During the first few years, only the internal RWS zone would be used; in the subsequent years, only the external RWS zone will be used. It is more expensive but it will provide a long-term tree water system in order to promote broader and deeper roots.

Can a RWS be used in tandem with a surface spray? 

Sprays are perfect for top-down soaking. This is great when a tree is newly transplanted. They help keep the root ball area moist. The RWS is placed outside of that root ball and helps drive roots away from the root ball into the adjacent soil. They are ideally used together during the first couple of years.

Should the RWS tubes be placed on a separate watering zone?

Yes. RWS units should be installed in their own watering zone. One might consider overlaying RWS with sprays, especially if flowers and ground cover are planted with trees and shrubs. Many installations see RWS as the only option during periods of drought – sprays might not be allowed but drip and subsurface irrigation are. 

How long should I water?

A 0.25 gallon per minute (0.95 l/m) bubbler will put out 7.5 gallons (28,4 liters) in 30 minutes. The volume of the 4” x 36” RWS tube (10,2 cm x 91,4 cm) is about 2 gallons (π r² h = 452 cubic inches or 1.98 gallons) (7,6 liters), less when the irrigation hardware is factored and much less if pea gravel is used. The soil type also plays a big role. The key is not to put more water into the tube than the tube and soil can absorb during that watering period. As a general rule, shorter watering volumes will limit overflows.

How does water move horizontally in soil?

In normal conditions with rain or surface watering, studies show that roots absorb around 70% of their water from the top half part of the root depth and 30% from the lower half. Wetness patterns differ based on the soil type. In sandy soil, water moves more vertical and less horizontal. In clay or loam soil, water also moves vertical but less rapidly, allowing time for the water to also more horizontally. Subsurface watering gets water deeper into the root growth area. As soaking occurs with RWS, water will make its way horizontally into the surrounding soil, more so in clay and loam soils than sandy soils.

How does RWS minimize the crushing possibility of a tree’s roots to the RWS tube?

Tree and shrub roots will find water. They will move toward the RWS tube. However, because it is not filled with soil, the roots will not enter the tube. One option to consider is to fill the tube with pea gravel. The gravel will help dissipate the water and direct it out the sides in a more controlled fashion rather than just filling from the bottom-up. The gravel will also create a firm foundation to the RWS tube, minimizing the possible crushing impact of tree and shrub roots.

Should the RWS tubes be placed on a separate watering zone?

Yes. RWS units should be installed in their own watering zone. One might consider overlaying RWS with sprays, especially if flowers and ground cover are planted with trees and shrubs. Many installations see RWS as the only option during periods of drought – sprays might not be allowed but drip and subsurface irrigation are. 

How long should I water?

A 0.25 gallon per minute (0.95 l/m) bubbler will put out 7.5 gallons (28,4 liters) in 30 minutes. The volume of the 4” x 36” RWS tube (10,2 cm x 91,4 cm) is about 2 gallons (π r² h = 452 cubic inches or 1.98 gallons) (7,6 liters), less when the irrigation hardware is factored and much less if pea gravel is used. The soil type also plays a big role. The key is not to put more water into the tube than the tube and soil can absorb during that watering period. As a general rule, shorter watering volumes will limit overflows.

How does water move horizontally in soil?

In normal conditions with rain or surface watering, studies show that roots absorb around 70% of their water from the top half part of the root depth and 30% from the lower half. Wetness patterns differ based on the soil type. In sandy soil, water moves more vertical and less horizontal. In clay or loam soil, water also moves vertical but less rapidly, allowing time for the water to also more horizontally. Subsurface watering gets water deeper into the root growth area. As soaking occurs with RWS, water will make its way horizontally into the surrounding soil, more so in clay and loam soils than sandy soils.

How does RWS minimize the crushing possibility of a tree’s roots to the RWS tube?

Tree and shrub roots will find water. They will move toward the RWS tube. However, because it is not filled with soil, the roots will not enter the tube. One option to consider is to fill the tube with pea gravel. The gravel will help dissipate the water and direct it out the sides in a more controlled fashion rather than just filling from the bottom-up. The gravel will also create a firm foundation to the RWS tube, minimizing the possible crushing impact of tree and shrub roots.

Which bubbler is best?

It depends on the soil type and length of watering. See the previous question.

Where should the RWS units be placed with respect to the trees? 

They should be placed away from the tree trunk and away from the tree bulb, ideally directly underneath the edge of where the mature tree’s canopy will be. The goal is to help the roots get out of the original hole and into the adjacent soil. The RWS needs to place water into this targeted area.

For longer term tree watering, RWS units can be placed at two different tree perimeters, each on a different watering zone. One perimeter can be closer to the root ball to help during the first couple of years. The second perimeter can be placed further way from the trunk to provide watering in subsequent years. During the first few years, only the internal RWS zone would be used; in the subsequent years, only the external RWS zone will be used. It is more expensive but it will provide a long-term tree water system in order to promote broader and deeper roots.

Can a RWS be used in tandem with a surface spray? 

Sprays are perfect for top-down soaking. This is great when a tree is newly transplanted. They help keep the root ball area moist. The RWS is placed outside of that root ball and helps drive roots away from the root ball into the adjacent soil. They are ideally used together during the first couple of years.

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